Sock Knitting Heel Techniques
Sock Heels
These heel patterns are written to work with socks of any number of cast-on stitches.
I've separated the heels into four categories based on sock construction:
- Cuff-Down
- French/Round Heel
- Rounder Heel
- V/Half Handkerchief Heel
- Dutch/Square Heel
- Modified Square Heel
- German Heel
- Band Heel
- Welsh Heel
- Strong Heel
- Common Heel
- Shaped Common Heel
- Balbriggan Heel
- Godet Heel
- Double Gusset Heel
- Short Row Heel Flap
- Cuff-Down & Toe-Up
- Short-row Wrap & Turn Heel
- German Short Row/Boomerang/Yo Yo/Jo Jo Heel
- Modified German Short-Row/Boomerang Heel
- Slipped Yarnover Short-row Heel
- Shadow Wrap Short-Row Heel
- Japanese/Pinned Short-Row Heel
- Priscilla's Wild Short-row Heel
- Mock Short-Row Heel
- Combination Heel
- Toe-Up
- French/Round Heel
- Dutch/Square Heel
- Reverse Dutch/Square Heel
- Fleegle Heel
- Afterthought
- Peasant/Afterthought Heel
- sädekavenus
- Heel edeellä
- Afterthought Tape Heel
- Short-row Heel
- One Wedge Heel
- Hourglass Heel
- Sweet Tomato Heel
Cuff-Down Sock Heels:
French/Round Heel
The French heel is worked flat on half of the leg stitches. This heel works best with an even number of heel stitches.
Heel Flap
Turn.
Row 1 (WS): Sl1, Purl to end, turn.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, Knit to end, turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 until heel flap is desired length, usually 2-3", ending with a Row 2 (RS).
Heel Turn
Gusset
Begin working in the round.
Setup Rnd: Knit across heel sts, pick-up and knit slipped stitches down side of heel flap. Knit across instep stitches. Pick-up and knit slipped stitches down the side of the heel flap. Knit to center of heel sts. This is new BOR.
Rnd 1: Knit to 3 sts before instep, K2tog, K1, knit across instep, K1, Ssk, knit to BOR.
Rnd 2: Knit around.
Repeat Rnds 1-2 until there are the same number of sts remaining as where on the leg before the heel flap.
Rounder Heel
The Rounder heel is worked flat on half of the leg stitches. It is a variation of the French Heel that provides a wider center to the heel turn.
Heel Flap
Work a heel flap on half the leg stitches.
Heel Turn
Row 3 (WS): Sl1, Purl to 1 st before gap, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 4 (RS): Sl1, Purl to 1 st before gap, P2tog, P1, turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 until all heel sts have been worked.
Gusset
Begin working in the round.
Setup Rnd: Knit across heel sts, pick-up and knit slipped stitches down side of heel flap. Knit across instep stitches. Pick-up and knit slipped stitches down the side of the heel flap. Knit to center of heel sts. This is new BOR.
Rnd 1: Knit to 3 sts before instep, K2tog, K1, knit across instep, K1, Ssk, knit to BOR.
Rnd 2: Knit around.
Repeat Rnds 1-2 until there are the same number of sts remaining as where on the leg before the heel flap.
V/Half Handkerchief Heel
Work a heel flap on half the leg stitches.
Heel Turn
Row 1 (RS): Knit half the heel stitches, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, P1, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 3 (RS): Sl1, Knit to 1 st before gap, Ssk, K1, turn.
Row 4 (WS): Sl1, Purl to 1 st before gap, P2tog, P1, turn.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked ending with a WS row.
Dutch/Square Heel
This heel is worked on half the number of leg stitches.
Note: When dividing for thirds, it is only important that the two outside thirds have the same number is stitches.
Heel Flap
Heel Turn
Row 1 (WS): Sl1, Purl until 1/3 heel sts rem, turn.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, Knit until 1/3 heel sts rem, Ssk; turn.
Row 3 (WS): Sl1, Purl until 1 st before gap, P2tog; turn.
Row 4 (RS): Sl1, Knit until 1 st before gap, Ssk; turn.
Rep Rows 3-4 until all the side sts have been eliminated and (1/3 of heel sts + 2 sts) rem;
Gusset
Begin working in the round.
Setup Rnd: Knit across heel sts, pick-up and knit slipped stitches down side of heel flap. Knit across instep stitches. Pick-up and knit slipped stitches down the side of the heel flap. Knit to center of heel sts. This is new BOR.
Rnd 1: Knit to 3 sts before instep, K2tog, K1, knit across instep, K1, Ssk, knit to BOR.
Rnd 2: Knit around.
Repeat Rnds 1-2 until there are the same number of sts remaining as where on the leg before the heel flap.
Modified Square Heel
This heel begins like a French/Round Heel until 1/3 of the heel stitches are worked and then it works as a Dutch/Square Heel.
Heel Flap
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, Knit to end, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, Purl to end, turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 until heel flap is desired length, usually 2-3", ending with a wrong side row.
Heel Turn
Divide heel stitches into thirds making sure the outer two thirds are equal.
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, knit to the center + 2 sts, Ssk, K1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 3 (RS): Sl1, Knit until 1 st before gap, Ssk, K1 turn.
Row 4 (WS): Sl, Purl until 1 st before gap, P2tog, P1, turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 until the center third sts plus sts on each outer third have been worked, leaving 1/3rd total heel sts +2 between the gaps.
Now you will work as a Dutch/Square Heel.
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, Knit center third sts, Ssk, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, Purl veneer third sts, P2tog, turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 until all sts have been worked.
German Heel
This heel turn is a variation of the Dutch/Square Heel that is wider and shorter.
Heel Flap
Work a heel flap on half of the leg stitches.
Heel Turn
Row 1 (WS): Sl1, Purl until (1/3 heel sts - 2 sts) rem, P2tog, turn.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, Knit until (1/3 heel sts - 2 sts) rem, Ssk; turn.
Row 3 (WS): Sl1, Purl until 1 st before gap, P2tog; turn.
Row 4 (RS): Sl1, Knit until 1 st before gap, Ssk; turn.
Rep Rows 3-4 until all the side sts have been eliminated and (1/3 of heel sts + 6 sts) rem;
Band Heel
The heel flap is worked flat on half of the number of leg stitches. This heel creates a band at the back and bottom of the heel. It doesn't have a gusset.
Heel Flap
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, Knit to end, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, Purl to end, turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 for a total number of rows equal to ¼ of leg stitches (e.g. for a 60 sts leg the total rows would equal 15).
Heel Flap Shaping
X = (Heel Stitches -10) / 2
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, K X-1, K2tog, K6, SKP, K X, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, Purl to end, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, K X-2, K2tog, K6, SKP, K X-1, turn.
Row 4: Sl1, Purl to end, turn.
Row 5: Sl1, K X-3, K2tog, K6, SPK, K X-2, turn.
Row 6: Sl1, Purl to end, turn.
Row 7: Sl1, K X-4, K2tog, K6, SKP, K X-3, turn.
Row 8: Sl1, Purl to end, turn.
Heel Turn
Y = (Heel Stitches - 8)/2+2
Row 1: Sl1, KY, SSK, turn.
Row 2: Sl1, P6, P2tog, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, K6, SSK, turn.
Repeat rows 2-3 until 8 stitches remain.
Pick-up Stitches
Z = (Heel Stitches - 8)/2
Rnd 1: Sl1, K to end.
Rnd 2: Pick-up Z stitches along the right side of the heel flap. Knit across instep, and pick-up Z stitches along the left side of the heel flap. Knit 4, to the center of the heel flap. BOR.
Continue knitting the foot.
Welsh Heel
This heel is worked on an odd number of stitches equal to approximately half the leg stitches. The center stitch of the heel is called the Seam Stitch.
Heel Flap:
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, Knit to Seam Stitch, Purl Seam Stitch, Knit to end of heel flap, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, Purl to Seam Stitch, Knit Seam Stitch, Purl to end of heel flap, turn.
Repeat rows 1 & 2 until heel flap is desired length ending with a WS row.
Heel Turn:
Setup Row (RS): Sl1, Knit to 10 sts before Seam Stitch, YO, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K1, Purl Seam Stitch, K1, K2tog, K5, K2tog, turn.
Row 1 (WS): YO, Purl to Seam Stitch, Knit Seam Stitch, Purl to 10 sts past Seam Stitch, turn.
Row 2 (RS) l: YO, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K1, Purl Seam Stitch, K1 K2tog, K5, K2tog, turn.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until all heel sts have been worked, skipping the yarnover (yo) in the last 2 rows, and ending with a WS row. (17 sts rem)
Strong Heel
Rnd 1: Knit across instep, K1, M1, Knit to last st, M1, K1.
Rnd 2: Knit around.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until heel sts are equal to 4 less than double the original number of heel stitches. (e.g. if the original number of heel stitches was 30, then the hell stitches should total (30*2)-4=56)
Heel Turn
Turn work to begin heel turn on a WS row.
Row 1 (WS): Sl1, Purl to center of heel sts, P1, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, K3, Ssk, K1, turn.
Row 3 (WS): Sl 1, Purl to 1 st before gap, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 4 (RS): Sl 1, Knit to 1 st before gap, Ssk, K1, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all side stitches have been worked, and the heel stitches equal the original number of heel stitches.
Common Heel
Heel flap is knit over an even number of stitches equal to approximately half of the leg stitches.
Heel Flap
Work rows totaling approximately the number of heel stitches or to desired length.
Hel Turn
Divided heel stitches evenly across two needles, break the yarn leaving a 12"/30cm tail and Kitchener the stitches together.
Gusset
Starting from the center of the bottom of the heel, pickup and knit 1 st across the bottom of the heel flap, then pick-up and knit all slipped stitches along the right side of heel flap, knit across instep, pickup and knit the slipped stitches along left side of heel flap, and then pick-up and knit 1 st along the bottom of the heel flap.
Proceeded with normal gusset decreases until you reach the original stitch count.
Shaped Common Heel
Heel flap is knit over an even number of stitches equal to approximately half of the leg stitches.
Heel Flap
Work rows totaling approximately the number of heel stitches.
Heel Turn
Place a marker in the center of the heel sts.
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, Knit to 2 sts before marker, K2tog, SM, SSK, knit to end, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, Purl across, turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 for a total number of rows equal to approximately a quarter of the original number of heel sts (e.g. 32 heel sts/4 = 8 rows).
Divided remaining stitches evenly across two needles, break the yarn leaving a 12"/30cm tail and Kitchener the remaining stitches together.
Gusset
Starting from the center of the bottom of the heel, pickup and knit 1 st across the bottom of the heel flap, then pick-up and knit all slipped stitches along the right side of heel flap, knit across instep, pickup and knit the slipped stitches along left side of heel flap, and then pick-up and knit 1 st along the bottom of the heel flap.
Proceeded with normal gusset decreases until you reach the original stitch count.
Balbriggan Heel
Heel flap is knit over an even number of stitches equal to approximately half of the leg stitches. It's easiest if the number of heel stitches is evenly divisible by 4 (e.g. 28, 32, 36).
Heel Flap
Work rows totaling approximately half the number of heel stitches (e.g. 32/2 = 16 rows).
Heel Turn
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, KX-1, Ssk, KX, Ssk, K2tog, KX, K2tog, KX, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, Purl across, turn. (Same for all even/WS rows.)
Row 3: Sl1, KX-1, Ssk, KX-2, Ssk, K2tog, KX-2, K2tog, KX, turn.
Row 5: Sl, KX-1, Ssk, KX-4, Ssk, K2tog, KX-4, K2tog, KX, turn.
Row 7: Sl, KX-1, Ssk, Ssk, K2tog, K2tog, KX, turn.
Row 8: Sl1, Purl across, turn.
Divided remaining stitches evenly across two needles, break the yarn leaving a 12"/30cm tail and Kitchener the remaining stitches together.
Gusset
Starting from the center of the bottom of the heel, pickup and knit X-2 sts across the bottom of the heel flap, then pick-up and knit all slipped stitches along the right side of heel flap, knit across instep, pickup and knit the slipped stitches along left side of heel flap, and then pick-up and knit X-2 sts along the bottom of the heel flap.
Proceeded with normal gusset decreases until you reach the original stitch count.
Godet Heel
This heel is worked on an odd number of stitches approximately equal to half the number of leg stitches. (e.g. for a 60 sts sock you would knit the heel on 29 or 31 sts).
Heel Godet
The godet is worked in the round, working the instep in pattern where necessary.
Setup Rnd: Knit to center of heel sts, PM, K1, PM, Knit to end.
Rnd 1: Knit to M, SM, M1R, K1, Knit to M, M1L, SM, Knit to end.
Rnd 2: Knit even.
Repeat rounds 1-2 until the sts between the markers are equal to the original number of heel sts.
Heel Turn
The heel turn is worked in short rows across the heel sts.
Row 1 (RS): Knit to st before the 2nd marker, w&t.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to st before the 1st marker, w&t.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to st before wrapped st from previous row, w&t.
Row 4 (WS): Purl to st before wrapped st from previous row, w&t.
Repeat rows 3-4 until one approx. half of the heel turn sts remain unwrapped in the center (e.g. for a 29 sts heel turn, 15 sts would be left unwrapped in the center and 7 sts would be wrapped on each side).
Heel Flap
Setup Row 1 (RS): Knit to the 2nd M working all wrapped sts as K2tog, remove marker, turn.
Setup Row 2 (WS): Sl1, Purl to M working all wrapped sts as P2tog, remove marker, turn.
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, Knit the original number of heel sts - 2 (e.g. for 29 sts heel = 29 - 2 = 27), Ssk, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, P original number of heel sts -2, P2tog, turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 until you return to the original number of leg sts.
Continue working the foot in the round.
Double Gusset Heel
This heel is worked flat on half of the leg stitches.
Heel Flap
Turn.
Row 1 (WS): Sl1, Purl to end, turn.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, Knit to end, turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 until heel flap is desired length, usually 2-3", ending with a Row 2 (RS).
Heel Turn
Row 1 (WS): Sl1, Purl to the center +2 sts, P2tog, P1, turn. (e.g. for a 30 sts heel you would P15+2 = P17)
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, Knit 5 , SSK, K1, turn.
Row 3 (WS): Sl1, Purl to 1 st before gap, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 4 (RS): Sl1, Knit to 1 st before gap, SSK, K1, turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 until all heel sts have been worked.
Gusset
Begin working in the round.
Setup Rnd 1: Knit across heel sts, place marker, pick-up and knit slipped stitches down side of heel flap. BOR, knit across instep stitches. Pick-up and knit slipped stitches down the side of the heel flap, place marker.
Setup Rnd 2: Knit.
Rnd 1: Knit to M, SM, SSK, Knit to 2 sts before M, K2tog, SM, Knit to end.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Repeat Rnds 1-2 until 4 sts rem between markers.
Count all your current sts. Subtract this number from the original leg stitch count. This is the number of sts you still need to decrease. Divide this number by 2. Move each stitch marker out this many stitches.
Repeat Rnds 1-2 until you once again have 4 sts between the markers and your stitch count is back to the original number.
Continue working in the round for the foot.
Short Row Heel Flap
Heel Flap
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, Purl across, turn.
Short Rows
Divide the heel sts into thirds and place markers between the thirds. (e.g For a sock with 30 heel sts you would divide the sections as follows: 10 sts, M, 10 sts, M 10 sts)
Row 1 (RS): Knit to 1 st before 2nd M, SSK, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Knit to 1 st before M, P2tog, turn.
Continue until all side third sts have been decreased and only the center third sts remain.
Row 1 (RS): Knit across heel sts, PUK one third of heel sts across heel flap, Knit across instep, PUK one third of heel sts across heel flap.
Continue working sock in the round.
Heels that work Toe-Up or Cuff-Down
Short-row Wrap & Turn Heel
This heel is worked on half the number of foot stitches.
Divide heel stitches into thirds, making sure the outer two thirds have an equal number of stitches. Place a markers between thirds.
Decrease Rows
Row 1 (RS): Knit to last stitch, wrap and turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to last stitch, wrap and turn.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to 1 stitch before wrapped stitch from previous row, wrap and turn.
Row 4 (WS): Purl to 1 stitch before wrapped stitch from previous row, wrap and turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 until all stitches in the outer two thirds have been wrapped and ending with a WS row.
Increase Rows
Row 1 (RS): Knit to the first wrapped stitch after the center stitches, knit the stitch hiding the wrap, wrap the next stitch, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to the first wrapped stitch after the center stitches, purl the stitch hiding the wrap, wrap the next stitch, turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 until all the wrapped stitches have been worked and ending with a WS row.
German Short-Row/Boomerang/Yo Yo/Jo Jo Heel
Like all short-row heels, this heel is worked on half the number of leg/foot stitches. The heel stitches are divided into thirds, making sure the two outer thirds are equal to each other. Place markers between the thirds.
Note: DS, "Double Stitch": with yarn in front slip 1 st purlwise, bring yarn over the needle pulling the slipped stitch tight so that the legs of the previous stitch are on the needle, creating what looks two stitches on the needle, knit/purl the next stitch normally.
Decrease Rows
Row 1 (RS): Knit across, turn.
Row 2 (WS): DS, Purl across, turn.
Row 3 (RS): DS, Knit to DS from previous row, turn.
Row 4 (WS): DS, Purl to DS from previous row, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all the outside stitches have been worked.
Center Rnds
Rnd 1: DS, knit across all heel stitches working DS as K2tog as you come to them. Knit across instep.
Rnd 2: Knit across heel sts working DS as K2tog as you come to them. Knit across instep.
Increase Rows
Row 1 (RS): Knit across 2/3 of heel stitches to first st after 2nd marker, SM, K1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): DS, purl across to 2nd marker, SM, P1, turn.
Row 3 (RS): DS, Knit to previous DS, work DS, K1, turn.
Row 4 (WS): DS, Purl to previous DS, work DS, P1, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all outer sts have been worked.
End Row: DS, knit across heel sts.
Foot
If using a contrast color for the heel, break the yarn and start knitting in the main color.
Working in the round:
Rnd 1: Conceal 1st wrapped stitch, knit across instep to wrapped st, conceal 2nd wrapped st.
Continue working the foot in the round.
Modified German Short-Row/Boomerang Heel
This modified version of the German Short-row heel doesn't have rounds knit across the instep between the decrease and increase rows. This makes it ideal for adding contrast heels. It works especially well for self self-striping/patterned yarns where you don't want to interrupt the pattern.
Like all short-row heels, this heel is worked on half the number of leg/foot stitches. The heel stitches are divided into thirds, making sure the two outer thirds are equal to each other. Place markers between the thirds.
Note: DS, "Double Stitch": with yarn in front slip 1 st purlwise, bring yarn over the needle pulling the slipped stitch tight so that the legs of the previous stitch are on the needle, creating what looks two stitches on the needle, knit/purl the next stitch normally.
Decrease Rows
Row 1 (RS): Knit across, turn.
Row 2 (WS): DS, Purl across, turn.
Row 3 (RS): DS, Knit to DS from previous row, turn.
Row 4 (WS): DS, Purl to DS from previous row, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all the outside stitches have been worked.
Center Rows
Row 1 (RS): DS, knit across all heel stitches working DS as K2Tog as you come to them, wrap & turn next instep st.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across all heel sts working DS as P2tog as you come to them, wrap and turn next instep st.
Increase Rows
Row 1 (RS): Knit across 2/3 of heel stitches to first st after 2nd marker, SM, K1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): DS, purl across to 2nd marker, SM, P1, turn.
Row 3 (RS): DS, Knit to previous DS, work DS, K1, turn.
Row 4 (WS): DS, Purl to previous DS, work DS, P1, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all outer sts have been worked.
End Row: DS, knit across heel sts.
Foot
If using a contrast color for the heel, break the yarn and start knitting in the main color.
Working in the round:
Rnd 1: Conceal 1st wrapped stitch, knit across instep to wrapped st, conceal 2nd wrapped st.
Continue working the foot in the round.
Slipped Yarnover Short-row Heel
Worked on half the foot/leg stitches.
Heel Increases
Row 1 (RS): Knit across, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Slyo, purl across, turn.
Row 3 (RS): Slyo, Knit to Slyo created on previous row, turn.
Row 4 (WS); Slyo, Purl to Slyo created on previous row, turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 until 2/3 of stitches have been worked (e.g. for a 30 sts heel there will be 10 Slyo, 10 plain sts at the center, then 10 Slyo).
Heel Center
Begin knitting in the round, knit to the end of the round knitting each Slyo as 1 st. Knit One more round even.
Heel Decreases
Begin working in rows again on half the leg stitches.
Row 1 (RS): Knit to last (1/3 heel sts -1 st), turn.
Row 2 (WS): Slyo, purl (1/3 heel sts +1 st), turn.
Row 3 (RS): Slyo, Knit to Slyo created on previous row, Knit Slyo as 1 st, K1, turn.
Row 4 (WS): Slyo, Purl to Slyo created on previous row, Putl Slyo as 1 st, P1, turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 until all heel sts have been worked.
Begin working in the round.
Next Rnd (RS): Slyo, knit around, knit Slyo as 1 st, new BOR.
Note: Slyo (Slipped Yarnover) = Bring yarn to the front as if to purl. With right needle slip next stitch purlwise. Wrap the yarn over the top of the right needle and pull tightly so that both legs of the stitch from the row below are stretched over the needle. Being the working yarn to the back of the right needle before working the next stitch.
To knit a slipped yarnover, insert the right needle under both legs of the stitch and work them together.
Shadow Wrap Short-Row Heel
Like all short-row heels, this heel is worked flat on half the number of leg/foot stitches. The heel stitches are divided into thirds, making sure the two outer thirds are equal to each other. Place markers between the thirds.
TSK (Twin Stitch Knit)
With your right needle come through the back of the right leg of the stitch below the first stitch on the left needle. Place this loop onto the left needle and knit it. Pass the stitch back to the left needle. Now you have a pair of "twin" stitches on the left needle.
TSP (Twin Stitch Purl)
Pass one stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Insert the left needle up through the purl bump under the first stitch on the right needle and purl this stitch. Slip the twin stitches from the right needle to the left.
Decrease Rows
Row 1 (RS): Knit to last heel st, TSK, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to last heel st, TSP, turn.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to 1 stitch before twin stitch from previous row, TSK, turn.
Row 4 (WS): Purl to 1 stitch before twin stitch from previous row, TSP, turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 until all side sts are twin stitches and ending with a WS row.
Increase Rows
Row 1 (RS): Knit to the first twin stitch after the center stitches, knit the twin stitches together, TSK next twin stitch (it will be a triplet), turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to the first twin stitch after the center stitches, purl the twin stitches together, TSP the next twin stitch (it will be a triplet), turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 until you have one twin stitch on each side unworked.
Row 1 (RS): Knit to twin stitch, Knit twin stich together, TSK the next instep stitch, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to twin stich, Purl twin stich together, TSP the next instep stitch, turn.
Row 3 (RS); Knit to end of heel stitches, BOR.
Begin working on the round.
Setup Rnd: Knit around working first and last instep stitches with their twins.
Continue working in the round for the foot/leg.
Japanese/Pinned Short-Row Heel
Priscilla's Wild Short-row Heel
This heel is worked on half of the number of foot stitches.
Note: Pu, "Pick-up": with right needle, lift bar between stitches and pull through a loop as if picking-up a stitch.
Decrease Rows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to next to last st, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl, Purl to next to last st, turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 until 1/3 of total heel sts rem (e.g. this would be 10 sts if the heel started with 30 sts) ending with a RS row.
Increase Rows:
Row 1 (WS): Purl to 1 st before gap, P2tog, Pu1, Turn.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, Knit to 1 st before gap, K2tog, Pu1, turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 until all heel stitches have been worked.
Mock Short-Row Heel
Like short row heels, this heel is knit over half of the total leg/foot stitches. The heel stitches are divided into thirds, making sure the two outer thirds are equal to each other. Place markers between the thirds.
Decrease Rows
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, Knit to last two sts, K2tog, turn.
Row 2 (WS): K1, Purl to last two sts, P2tog, turn.
Row 3 (RS): P1, Knit to last two sts, K2Tog, turn.
Row 4 (WS): K1, Purl to last two sts, P2tog, turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 until all outside sts have been worked leaving 1 st on each outer third.
Center Rows
Row 1 (RS): P1, Knit across, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, Purl across, turn.
Increase Rows
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, Knit across, Pu1 from garter edge, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, Purl across, Pu1 from garter edge, turn.
Repeat rows 1-2 until all garter edge sts have been picked-up and you have returned to the original number of heel sts.
Sl1, begin knitting in the round.
Combination Heel
This heel is worked over half the sock stitches and uses both an increase gusset, short rows, and a decrease gusset.
Note: DS, "Double Stitch": with yarn in front slip 1 st purlwise, bring yarn over the needle pulling the slipped stitch tight so that the legs of the previous stitch are on the needle, creating what looks two stitches on the needle, knit/purl the next stitch normally.
Gusset Increase
Rnd 1: Knit across instep, Knit 1/3 of heel sts, M1R, PM, Knit 1/3 of heel sts, PM, M1L, Knit to end.
Rnd 2: Knit even.
Rnd 3: Knit to M, M1R, SM, Knit to M, SM, M1L.
Rnd 4: Knit even.
Repeat rnds 3-4 for a total number of rows equal to 3/4 the number of heel stitches (e.g. for a sock with a 32 heel sts you would knit 24 gusset rows).
Short Rows
Row 1(RS): Knit to last heel st, turn
Row 2(WS): DS, Purl to last heel st, turn.
Row 3: DS, Knit to 1 st bef last DS, turn.
Row 4: DS, Purl to 1 st bef last DS, turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 until you have worked the outside stitches, leaving the center 1/3 sts unworked.
Gusset Decrease
Setup Rnd: Knit around working all DS together as you come to them. All DS should be worked.
Rnd 1: Knit across instep, Knit 1/3 of heel sts less 2 sts, K2tog, PM, Knit 1/3 of heel sts, PM, SSK, Knit to end.
Rnd 2: Knit even.
Rnd 3: Knit to 2 sts bef M, K2tog, SM, Knit to M, SM, SSK.
Rnd 4: Knit even.
Repeat Rnds 3-4 until you return to the original number of heel sts.
Toe-Up Sock Heels:
French/Round Heel
This heel is knit on half of foot stitches.
Gusset Increase
Rnd 1: Knit across instep, M1L, PM, Knit across heel, PM, M1R.
Rnd 2: Knit even.
Rnd 3: Knit to M, M1L, SM, Knit to M, SM, M1R.
Rnd 4: Knit even.
Repeat rnds 3-4 for a total number of rows equal to 1/2 the number of foot stitches (e.g. for a sock with a 60 sts foot you would knit 30 gusset rows). You should have twice as many heel sts as instep sts.
Next Rnd: Knit to end of heel sts, picking up wraps as you comet to them, then k across instep sts. You should now be at the beginning of the heel sts.
Heel Turn
Heel Turn short rows are worked on 1/2 the original number of foot sts (e.g. for a 60 sts foot you would work the short rows on 30 sts).
Row 1 (RS): Knit (3/4 heel sts - 1) (e.g. for a 60 sts heel you would knit: 60*3/4 = 45 -1 = 44 sts ), wrap & turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, Purl 1/2 heel sts - 2 (e.g. for 60 sts heel: 60 * 1/2 = 30 - 2 = 28 sts), wrap & turn.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to st before the last wrapped st, w&t.
Row 4 (WS): Purl to st before the last wrapped st, w&t.
Repeat rows 3-4 until you have unwrapped center stitches totaling 1/6 the number original foot sts (for a 60 sts heel = 60/6 = 10 sts) between your wrapped stitches.
Knit to the beginning of the round, picking up the wraps and knitting them with their stitches.
Heel Flap
The heel flap is worked flat
Row 1 (RS): Knit across instep, Knit 3/4 heel sts - 1 (e.g. 60 sts heel: 60*3/4 = 45 - 1 = 44 sts) picking up the wraps and knitting them with their stitch, Ssk, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, Purl 1/2 heel sts -2 (e.g. for 60 sts heel: 60*1/2 = 30 -2 = 28), P2tog, turn.
Row 3 (RS): Sl1, Knit to 1 st before gap, Ssk, turn.
Row 4 (WS): Sl1, Purl to 1 st before gap, P2tog, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all heel flap stitches have been worked with the gusset stitches, and the total stitch count is equal to the original number of foot stitches.
Sl1, knit to end of the round. Begin working the leg of the sock.
Dutch/Square Heel
Reverse Dutch Heel
Fleegle Heel
Afterthought Sock Heels:
Peasant/Afterthought Heel
Afterthought Tape Heel
Short-row Heel
One Wedge Heel
Hourglass Heel
Sweet Tomato Heel
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